West Sussex restaurant guide: The Camellia, Horsham, West Sussex

By Zoe Williams in West Sussex Published: 8:30AM GMT twenty-six February 2010

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The Camellia, Horsham, West Sussex

The Camellia

Restaurants: Culinary bliss found...in East Kent Restaurant review: The Pass Restaurant, South Lodge Hotel, West Sussex Property in Spain, but not as we know it Win a six-day oppulance stream journey for dual from perfume to Basel aboard the Premicon Queen Ian McKellen: a free man

South Lodge Hotel, Brighton Road, Horsham, West Sussex (01403 891711)

Three courses: �52.50 Stella rating: 7.5/10

There are one or dual restaurants of country-house hotels origin the perspective is so undiluted no continue condition could problematic the landscaped majesty, the wraparound, undying Englishness. The food could be anything; it could be a Pringle and half a lager, and that would be weird, but you would still arise from the experience feeling incredibly advantageous to have been authorised in. Cliveden is such a place and despite with less grandeur, less liaison pedigree, less cut with a chisel in the grassed area so as well is South Lodge. Its restaurant, the Camellia, is incredibly traditional; the ambience is what the word "hush was invented for, the tables are all couples celebrating their 55th marriage anniversary, or incomparable groups of tip bananas from the Rotary Club, but still… sitting by the window of this dining-room creates me wish to widen in self-centredness and self-satisfaction, similar to a Persian cat.

The menu scallops, terrine of assorted meats, gravlax, a lot of beef looks as almighty as food itself, though there are a little quirky touches, such as a Camellia brunch in the starters, subtitled "sausage, bacon and eggs? (I love that stay subject mark, as if to convey, "Have we left quite, utterly mad?). J had the scallops, that arrived atop crab ravioli and braised fennel (�18). Simple, a inexhaustible volume but not daunting, smashing flavour, generally from the crab. Empirically, I can discuss it you it was creamy, but my mental recall of it is all mutation and innocence; you would never call it rich. I had the Cowfold cower (�15). It was served flattering resolutely on a chicory and orange salad that was all but undressed (I think it had a dash of balsamic on it), but once I tasted the beef I understood.

I consternation since Ive never had cower so good; it cant be singular to Cowfold, surely? The leg was confit and there was a medium-rare gob of breast. I suspect the flattering surprising for any one to intemperate so most and such sundry courtesy on such a teeny-tiny unit, but it was positively terrific, the lot of it tender, particular and subtly gamey.

J one after another with the slow-cooked Sussex strap of beef (�28).

I took opposite the idea, since because would any one slow-cook fillet? You competence as well get a poetic bottle of pauillac and have sangria out of it. Of march I was wrong, and it was really good; it seemed to have gained dimension from the oven time, but lost nothing of the spring. There was a parsnip croquette on the side that I was additionally soft by. I had the parched sea bream with wild mushrooms (�22), that was really professional, but on change the starters were some-more eventful. This tasted similar to something a preternaturally proficient but additionally shy teen competence have on Junior Masterchef.

Finally, we common a hazelnut torte with chocolate-brownie ice thickk cream (�8). It was one of those puds you can design fifteen people assisting to make, each with a tiny piping bag really well-spoken and expertly crafted, intensely moreish but never as well sweet, that is probably what the hazelnut would similar to created on the gravestone.

I should point out that, nonetheless the prices see eye-popping, I think they especially do that for show (this is the eventuality eaterie of the area what would it see similar to if they charged the same as the gastropub?). Theres a set menu that is great value. It was usually in the interests of investigate that we eschewed it. Either way, either the a special-occasion provide or a impertinent prix-fixe treat, this is definitely, memorably, a treat. Sit by the window.

FLOWERY PLACES

Hibiscus twenty-nine Maddox Street, London W1 (020 7629 2999)

Claude Bosis adventurous creations, served in a calm room, have warranted him a boiling repute for special-occasion cooking. Try pig belly and eel in teriyaki salsa with prohibited sausage hurl and black-truffle sauce (from �70 for 3 courses)

Primrose 1 Clifton Arcade, Bristol (0117 946 6577)

Caf by day, candlelit bistro by night, this ridicule mark has a menu with a Mediterranean feel. Try fry wild wild pig beef with grained mustard mash, castelluccio lentils and cotechino sausage (�16.50)

Rose and Crown Old Church Road, Snettisham, Norfolk (01485 541382)

The complicated dining-room of this 14th-century motel has an eye-popping colour scheme. Ingredients are local, with Brancaster mussels delivered by fishermen still in their waders. Try duck and smoked pancetta cake (�10.50)

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