Comme des Garçons autumn/winter 2010/11 collection

By By Hilary Alexander Published: 12:17PM GMT 07 March 2010

Photo: AFP

Comme des Garcons

Shape is something of an effervescent judgment for Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons. It may, or similarly might not, have anything to do with the figure of a womans body. It can be squeezed to shackle and revoke proportions or, conversely, it can be magnified, so that garments are blown out of all proportion.

Comme des Garçons autumn/winter 2010/11 pick up Viktor and Rolf"s layered see from the bureau of glorious More from Milan Fashion Week More on Paris Fashion Week More on London Fashion Week More from New York Fashion Week

In yesterdays autumn/winter collection, Kawakubo was experimenting with figure by equipping her jackets, trousers and skirts, with sewn-on, round panels, pressed with white foam padding.

She called it "inside decoration", that was loyal to a sure border the stuffing was positively on the inside, in all concealed, but spasmodic poking by an open join or slash. The result, however, all happened on the outside.

Jackets and coats insincere oversized shapes, with these soft, padded additions stitched onto shoulders, the bust, the arms. Skirts were versed with large, padded panniers at each hip, or else bunched and collected in to coils of fabric, rather similar to the "cones" of hair, coiled similar to springs on the models heads; a little ragged with skinny, ruched trousers featuring silver-sparkle side seams, or jodhpur-trousers in white cotton, or black velvet.

The fabrics were menswear suitings; a colourless worsted, or a grey pinstripe, for example, with each so mostly the shock of extraordinary red tartans, in dual opposite check patterns, or a sparkle-grey lead fabric.

The "inside decoration" became softer and some-more visible, when Kawakubo used black or white chiffon, and combined a join of ruffles to confine the stitched-on pads, or else serve flashy the stuffing with ruching.

The garments were beautifully made, but so curiously designed. "Curiouser and curiouser", as Alice in Wonderland remarked, a lady who knows utterly a lot of timorous and enlarging.