John Galliano: Paris Fashion Week

By by Hilary Alexander, Fashion Director at Paris Fashion Week Published: 6:02PM GMT 07 March 2010

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John Gallianos fantastical pick up desirous by nomadic, warrior-women, shown in Paris, climaxed a contingent of collections by British designers at the prêt-à-porter deteriorate here yesterday.

Silver shine rained down on the catwalk in a room on the hinterland of Paris, as Gallianos models appeared in bias-cut, sheer gowns and saturated brocade, sheepskin and embossed tanned hide mountain-coats, embellished with yak-fur, blending the moods of monster and polished craftsmanship.

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Silk "sarouel" trousers were tucked in to movement boots on needle-thin heels, and barbaric, china and plume trinket flashy necks and arms. Gigantic turban-hats were done from Mongolian lamb, fox and wool.

Galliano, who, last Friday, showed his pick up for the residence of Dior, took his crawl at the end of his own show, wearing full "brigand chieftain" get-up, finish with a cutting edge in his belt.

His own tag pick up was in sheer contrariety to that shown by fellow-British designer, Phoebe Philo, who presented her second pick up for the French, luxury, ready-to-wear brand, Celine, progressing in the day.

With the ability of a tightrope walker, Philo managed the undiluted change of modernity, ease, and childish sophistication.

Her garments were the clean, forward-looking classics of the future; directional, but never veering in to the realms of sci-fi. In a tightly-edited palette of navy, black, olive and ivory, the pick up set the tinge for the "must-have" habit subsequent autumn/winter.

The show, one of the hottest tickets of this Paris season, focused on slim, side-buttoned coats, cropped trousers, shirt-tail knits, and leather-pocketed skirts and dresses, in wool, silk and Lurex-tweed.

The London-based designer, Hussein Chalayan, one of the leaders of the avant-garde, took his impulse from a surreal American road-trip, with china foil and lame-wrapped models representing "twisters", Amish bonnets with frail black tailoring and white shirts, and crystal-beaded dresses to paint Dallas beauty pageants and Las Vegas.

The autumn/winter 2010/2011collection by Stella McCartney, kicks off tomorrows report of shows.